Wow, quite a progress! What I did during last 10 days to make such a difference? When I think well, not too much – I wrote two more articles, put Adsense on the blog, added link to my blog in my signature at couple of forums that I am regular visitor and finally I installed All in One SEO Pack plugin for Wordpress. I believe that the latest one is the biggest reason for such improvements. Number of indexed pages reported by Google Webmaster Tools climbed to 9 (out of 10 existing pages), but when I search Google for site:www.vladimir-ilic.com I get 49 results back! Reason for this is the fact that Google also reports the URLs that list categories or tags, for example http://www.vladimir-ilic.com/tag/toroidal/. I am not sure if this is result of the SEO plugin or simply Google itself have found links to the categories and tags from the blog pages itself, but I tend to believe that second option is more realistic.

Here I will mention Adsense – I applied for Adsense and included the adds on the blog out of curiosity. I know that number of visits that I am getting daily is not very high and I can’t expect to earn decent cash overnight, but I want to see how many people actually is clicking on those adds and track the improvements of the number of visits and click over the time.

Also, at the moment I do not have much backlinks to my site other that those I got by posting on forums, and I will try to work on that in following days. In ten days I will revisit this topic and give another update. Until then, stay tuned to this blog!

We started with the standard balcony dish stand which we got from the local satellite shop in Schaerbeek, Brussels. From some strange reason unknown to me, here in Belgium you do not have many shops selling satellite equipment. But, in the mentioned part of Brussels you can find 6-7 satellite shops which have bit overpriced goods. Unfortunately they did not have a standing pole with the diameter of 60 mm which is required by T-90 Toroidal dish. I explained in one of previous articles why it is necessary to have exactly 60 mm wide stand. At the end, we used just a square bottom part of the stand, and luckily we found appropriate pole in another shop which already had suitable ending to mount on the square foot. However, that pole was 3 meter long and we needed only 50-60 cm part, so we cut it and afterwards we had only to figure out how to get rid of 2 meter long remaining part.

In order to protect the roof surface from the damage, we used some rubber duct tape to cover bit sharp bottom part of the dish holder. At the end, we put some heavy concrete tiles and bags with send to make sure that dish would not be moved by the wind.

And that’s it – this dish is standing happily on the roof already for a while, and even couple of storms did not move the system for a millimeter – the signal strength reported at the satellite receiver has not changed from the day one.

I will assume here that you already connected the LNB’s from your dish (or dishes) to the DiSEqC 1.1 switch, and that the switch is connected to the Dreambox. Now you should go to the receivers menu and select option 6 (Setup).Then, select option 2 (Service Searching) and in the next menu choose option 1 (Satellite Configuration).

On the next page, select “non-standard user defined configuration”. On the same screen you can choose satellites you want to receive. You can delete the satellites that you do not need or eventually add other satellites which are not in the list, using New and Erase buttons.

After you added all satellites that you can receive, you should configure the LNB for each satellite. It is possible to use same LNB to receive two nearby satellites (for example 9E and 10E like on the example shown on the picture). With the remote control you can navigate to the LNB number behind the name of the satellite and press OK, as shown on the picture.

In the next menu select the LNB number that will be used to receive selected satellite – this number is just for your reference, it does not have to map to the number of the used switch input. Also select option to increase voltage – at least I have to use this option with my Best Germany 8×1 switch.

Go to the next page (blue button) and configure the following options:

Toneburst: None

DiSEqC Mode: Version 1.1

DiSEqC Parameter: None

DiSEqC Repeats: None

Uncommitted switch: (input number where the LNB is connected to the switch)

Disable Sequence repeat, Fast DiSEqC and Swap Commands options.

You should then repeat procedure for all remaining LNB’s, and when everything is finished you can finally enjoy in fast channel switching between different satellites, without waiting for the dish to rotate.

http://www.ventio.se/seo-tools/google-position/

Here is some statistic for main keywords of the indexed article:

I guess there is still lot of work to be done – at the first place I will have to provide some more of quality content and of course to work on the SEO. I am sure that not many people will search for something like “toroidal dish t-90 installation vladimir”, but at least I am at number 1 for some keywords combination (good excuse, isn’t it?).

I will repeat the same test after 20 and 30 days to have some idea about indexing and ranking progress, and of course post the results here.

I am writing this article two months after the purchase date of the Lumix TZ-7. I believe I had enough time to figure out its pros and cons, and all together I can say I am quite happy with the features of the camera. Of course, there are some things that I do not like about it, but overall I find it to be great camera for average user who wants to have excellent still images and video capabilities in one box.

First of all I want to mention that problem with lose dial button that may people online are mentioning as major drawback of this camera, is not so big in my eyes. Yes, it is true that there is a high chance that the button will move to another position when you put camera in the pocket or case, but I really do not understand what is such big deal about that – it takes you just one second to move the button into position you want, and honestly you would need most of the times to change the scene mode if you want to get the best possible shot. The button is not lose in the sense that it could fall off or break – it is just easily rotates when you manipulate with the camera. This problem should definitely not influence your decision to buy or not to buy Lumix TZ-7.

The mentioned dial button has 6 positions: Intelligent Auto, Manual mode, My scene 1 (MS1) and 2 (MS2), Scene mode (SCN) and Clipboard. I virtually never use Intelligent auto mode, as I prefer to keep little bit of control what is camera actually doing. The Intelligent auto mode is in fact selecting for you one of the predefined scene modes and it is good for people who really want to use TZ-7 as point-and-shoot camera. Scene mode, My scene 1 and My scene 2 are exactly same – the idea here is that you can keep some predefined scene modes which you are often using on positions MS1 and MS2, and you should use SCN position to select some other scene modes which you use less frequently. I guess that this approach makes sense, but I personally tend to forget which modes I configured on MS1 and MS2, so I anyway use SCN position. The last position on the dial button is for clipboard mode, where you can take 2 megapixel photos that you need to have easily reachable – for example you can take a photo of the map which you want always easy to reach. Again, I guess this might be good idea, but in the practice I did not find any real value of clipboard option. Finally, the manual mode is not fully manual, but it still gives you more control over different parameters like ISO settings, white balance, minimum shutter speed, etc. I am using manual mode from time to time, but most of the time I keep using one of predefined scene modes. The camera is coming with 27 predefined scene modes and you can find their description at Panasonic site. I will not spend much time here explaining each of these modes. Instead, I will just mention some of them that I am using often and their key features.

Probably the most used scene modes in my case are portrait and scenery, for making photos of people and nature. Most of the photos taken in this mode are crisp and with good colors, without need to think too much about camera settings. The portrait mode can be used with flash, while scenery mode by default switches flash off. There are also night versions of these two modes, where night portrait boost ISO value and use slower shutter speeds but still has option of using flash, and night scenery allows shutter speed to be up to 8 seconds. It took me a while to figure out that you need to turn off optical stabilization in order to reach such long exposure times. If you are not using the tripod and optical stabilization is on, camera will smartly detect that the optimal shot in night condition will be obtained by using very high ISO values, and not by increasing exposition time. Unfortunately I could not find way to manually specify the shutter speed in the night scenery mode – it is still up to camera to decide about that. There is also starry sky mode where you can select among 3 predefined shutter speeds -15, 30 and 60 seconds, so it can be kind of useful for night shots. I managed to get few pretty good looking night shots in this mode. Other than that, I find beach, sunset, sport and party mode useful, while the others I am not using so much. Anyway I believe that other users’ opinion might differ.

The other nifty feature of TZ-7, which actually attracted me to buy this camera, is fantastic 12x optical zoom. On the photos below you can see the example of snapshots taken with two end position of the zoom lens – I would say this is quite impressive. People are normally not used to the compact cameras with such high zoom capabilities, so you could use your TZ-7 as great spy camera. This summer I made few very funny shots of people who had no idea I am actually able to capture them from such distance. Can you imagine trying to make such photos with DSLR and huge telephoto lens and not being obvious? If you like to be bad boy sometimes (like I do) or you are simply playing Sherlock Holmes, nothing can beat this camera at this point in time. Optical image stabilization works really well both for taking still shots and videos at 12x zoom. The photo quality at the maximal zoom level is pretty much the same comparing with no zoom, so in my honest opinion the super zoom is the major selling point of TZ-7, together with HD video capability.  What I also like very much is capability to choose between 4:3, 16:9 and 3:2 formats of photos. For standard holidays snapshots I prefer to use 3:2, because that way you can be sure nothing will be cropped of the photo if your girlfriend or mom wishes to print out some of the photos in the standard 15×10 cm size. The 16:9 can be also very useful if you watch your photos on HDTV screen. There is also Multi aspect feature, which allows you to save your photo immediately in all 3 formats. I am normally not using that feature as it is simply filling your SD cards with 3 copies of the same photo that you actually do not need most of the time.

When you come to the photo quality, I would say it is pretty good, but unfortunately I have feeling that the digital noise level is bit higher than I would like to see. When the image is magnified, I have the feeling that my old IXUS 40 camera was producing bit less noise. However, I believe that this is normal as 4 megapixel CCD of old camera should have bigger physical pixel size than this 10 megapixel sensor used by TZ-7. This is obvious example that the megapixel race is pointless in the compact camera world. Please Panasonic, do not give us more megapixels in the future TZ model, we do not need them! At beginning (first month of using TZ-7) I used to make photos in 4.5 megapixels, but then I realized that smaller dimensions of the photos are obtained simply by cropping the bigger photo and that effectively just the smaller middle part of CCD is used. The result is the photo with virtually identical noise level compared with the full resolution photo. What I am doing now is using maximal resolution and best quality settings when taking photos, and then I resize pictures on computer to get smaller photos without noticeable digital noise. Anyway I do not consider this as major issue and I am quite happy with the overall photo quality.

The video quality is also very, very competitive. Comparing with my old DV camera, it is much better, with good color saturation, excellent sound, smooth movement capture without any jerkiness and good image stabilization even at the highest zoom level. I made few recordings at couple of concerts which are very watchable and with good sound quality. People on YouTube find these recording to be excellent, I will post the links in the video section of this blog later, and you can check the example from the AC/DC concert below.

As I mentioned in the part one of TZ-7 review, you can use zoom while recording video and it is major advantage comparing with the competitors. TZ-7 is not replacement for quality HD camcorder however, but for me personally it is great that I can have always in my pocket the device which can make very quality videos. I personally do not have experience with HD camcorders at this point of time, but people on net say that TZ-7 video quality is not even close to the quality of Canon VIXIA camcorders for example. I believe them, but knowing how good video is TZ-7 producing, I would expect that image quality from dedicated HD camcorders is absolutely stunning in good conditions. Maybe one day I will discover that when the prices of HD camcorders drop, but at this point of time TZ-7 is everything that I need to make occasional good looking videos. The only problem I found regarding to video recording is that zoom is bit slow, but I can easily live with that. The focus can be bit slow when you are zooming during recording, and again people in other reviews mention that as a big issue, but for me it does not represent a major drawback. The European model is also limited to 15 minutes length of the captures, but I can easily live with it. The only situation until now when I needed to record clip longer than 15 minutes was the guitar solo of Angus Young which seemed to last forever. :-) It is also worth mentioning that there is dedicated video record button, which is very handy - you can start recording your video immediately, no matter in which mode your dial butt0n is set.

All together, I do not regret buying Lumix TZ-7 and I would recommend it to any amateur photographer who wants easy to use camera with excellent photo and video capabilities in a sleek case. Of course, this is not a gear for semi-pro or pro users, as it lacks manual control, capability to save photos in RAW format, etc. Basically it is another point-and-shoot camera, but excellent one, and it is worth every penny that I spend on it. I hope I will enjoy it at least for several years, until manufacturers offer something with the new options that would justify buying a new camera. Until then, I will happily stick to my TZ-7.

It was the time when I was single and going out a LOT, and the photo camera was incredible effective tool to approach girls. You could just simply ask nice lady standing in crowd next to you to make photo of your friends and you, and then show her the photos she took, take few shots of her with her friends and immediately you had the contact established. I believe this method will work today too – I haven’t tried it already for years since I met my lovely girlfriend (I didn’t bring camera with me that night when we met, believe it or not). Since then my focus has shifted, so I am mostly using camera to take travel snapshots, some family and friends photos at different gatherings, and also I enjoy pretty much in making panoramas or pictures of architectural landmarks.

So I decided to start looking for the replacement of my broken IXUS. I could maybe fix that broken plastic cover, but honestly I think it was time to move on and get some up to date camera. Already for months I was thinking of buying HD camcorder, as footages captured with my old DV camera in PAL resolution looked terrible on LCD HDTV. The reasons I didn’t buy HD camcorder yet were the price at the first place – the price tag of almost 1000 euro for quality HD camcorder was quite high, and secondly I knew that I didn’t carry my old camcorder around very often. In average I used to carry it with me only for vacations once or twice per year, and then I was quite lazy to transfer videos to my PC with Firewire and make some decent looking DVD. Having that in mind, I probably made the best possible decision and start looking for one of the new digital photo cameras which capable of taking high quality video.

I could choose between couple of compact cameras featuring HD video – Lumix TZ-7, IXUS 990, IXUS 110, Canon Powershot SX200 IS and maybe few more. Another very tempting option was to go for full DSLR camera like Canon EOS 500D, but then I realized that I will have same problem I have right now with the camcorder – probably I would not carry with me bulky DSLR camera very often, so it would most likely just collect dust somewhere in the closet. Among the mentioned cameras, the most obvious advantage of Lumix TZ-7 was great 12x optical zoom and possibility to use zoom while filming – Canon cameras do not allow you to zoom in and out once you start filming. Design wise, IXUS cameras are most attractive of course, but TZ-7 is not much behind, and in my eyes it is much more beautiful that Canon’s super zoom model SX 200.

And yes – decision has been made -my new camera would be Panasonic Lumix TZ-7, in black color. It is also available in red, silver and few other tones, but somehow these colors look little bit gay I would say. Here is the list of the features that I found on internet before the purchase and which were important enough to help me make the decision:

-          720p HD video capability

-          Great 12x optical zoom

-          Super high resolution 3.0” LCD screen

-          Possibility to zoom in/out while recording video

-          Optical image stabilizer

In the second part of the review you can read about my impressions after I actually bought the camera.

While ago, I was looking for a solution to use my land line in Serbia to call friends and family while I was out of country. Of course, I could use standard VOIP providers, but it is still bit expensive to call land lines in Serbia as VOIP termination is monopolized by state telecom company. This is going to change soon I believe, but still you can’t call Serbia for 1 cent per minute or so, which is normal VOIP price for majority of European countries. I wanted somehow to connect to the land line in my house via internet, and from there call whomever I want at the low local tariff. After some online research, I decided to buy a Fritz!Box.

The price for new Fritz!Box WiFi, which is actually an ADSL router with build in SIP client and wireless access point in Belgian shop was quite high. It costs around 150 euro, and having in mind that idea for this project was to actually save on the phone bills, I was bit reluctant to cash out so much money. Of course, I started looking for used Fritz!Box on eBay, and very soon I’ve bought a Fritz!Box 7050 in black color from German seller for less than 50 bucks. At that time I didn’t realize that ADSL standards in Germany and rest of the Europe do not match – I thought that lower price for the used device in Germany was result of the fact that many people got the box for free and after changing internet provider they wanted to get rid of it and earn some cash. Of course, non-German sellers were asking much more money for their precious Fritz!Box, and if I could not order one from Germany I believe that I would rather go for a brand new device with warranty instead.

Can you imagine how big was my surprise when I got device with German-only interface, which does not work on my ADSL line? I can understand some German as I used to learn it in high school, but now it is a bit rusty. Anyway, I was able to configure the parameters of my ADSL line, but the damn thing did not want to synchronize with the Belgacom ADSL line. What else I could do – I plugged back my old router and searched for the fix. Luckily, there are many smart guys out there hacking these devices, and rather quickly (in couple of hours) I was able to load English firmware that supports non-German phone standards. So remember –if you buy Fritz!Box, the Annex-B device is supposed to work in Germany only, and for other European countries you would need an Annex-A box. But as I said, with little bit of effort you can manage to software update your German-speaking box to English web interface and work on Annex-A land lines. I will not spend time here to explain how to convert your device, as there are many different methods to do so depending on the model and firmware version. The best place for this is German forum www.ip-phone-forum – there is also English section and you will find many nice folks who would help you if you post a question.

Once the box was updated, it synchronized with the ADSL line immediately I entered the credentials, and I was online. It is possible to configure up to 10 different SIP accounts, and as I already had VoipBuster and VoipStunt logins, I quickly set them up. At the back of the Fritz!Box there are two ports for connecting analog phone, so I connected a wireless DECT base to one of the connectors. I logged in with my PC to another VoipBuster account, and tried to call directly from PC the account configured on the router. Of course, it worked very well – the phone started to ring and the sound quality was perfect.

Now it was time to test the function because of which I bought the Fritz!Box at the first place. I configured option “Call through” and specified that incoming calls to the VoipBuster line are routed to the land line. I configured the 4 digits pin code, and again used PC VoipBuster client to call the account configured on the Fritz!Box. Immediately after pressing the dial button, I heard special short tone signalizing that I need to enter PIN. I typed in 4 digits, and then press 0 to get access to the land line (as explained in the product manual). And voila – I heard dial tone from my land line on the speakers of my PC. First number I tried to dial was my mobile, and on the screen I saw the caller ID of my land line.

Good – it worked flawlessly. Happy and satisfied with the device, I realized that it could be good idea to buy one more Fritz, so I could keep one of them in Brussels apartment and the other in my parents’ house in Serbia, as originally planned. In next few days I bought one more Fritz!Box on German eBay, and I managed to buy it for only 25 euro, as it was device without WiFi. I already had WiFi access points in Serbia, so the cheaper version was more than enough. The second box was as well for German market, but having the experience with the first one, it didn’t take me much time to convert it to English language and Annex-A. Before I left to Serbia, I just managed to enable the remote access to my Belgian Fritz!Box so I could control it from remote location. From some reason, this feature is not accessible from the web interface – by default you could manage your Fritz only from the internal network, and there is no option to allow remote management. Again I had to search for solution online, and it was not too difficult to figure out that only way to enable the remote access was to connect to the Fritz!Box with telnet and edit couple of files by hand. I didn’t mention that Fritz!Boz is actually running on Linux, so most of standard UNIX command worked, including editor. However, there is also special version of editor called nvi (instead standard vi), and the difference is that with nvi you could edit the file directly in the flash memory. I will not write here how to do that, if you need it I am sure you can find it quickly using your favorite search engine.

The final challenge I had was to get direct access to my land line in Belgium using the wireless handset in Serbia and vice versa, with the help of two Fritz!Boxes and internet. It was easy to call the Voipbuster user from PC with their proprietary VOIP application, or even using some other soft phone like SJphone for example. There it is enough just to enter your username@voipbuster.com and direct SIP call would be established. However, the handset connected to the Fritz!Box does not have alphanumeric keyboard, so the solution I am using is based on the built-in phonebook of Fritz!Box. For example, in the first position of the phonebook I would enter something like sip:username@voipbuster.com and save it, and then from the handset I would use **701 to dial to the first phonebook entry. Similar, for second phonebook number the shortcut on the handset should be **702. You can see how the configuration looks like on the attached screenshot.

And that’s it! Now I can use my land line in Serbia when I am in Belgium, and from Belgium I can also utilize the land line in Serbia to have cheap calls to my friends and family. I would also like to be able to establish direct call between two Fritz!Boxes without help of the SIP provider like VoipBuster, but until now I did not figure out how to do that (if possible). If any of you guys reading this articles know how to do that, please post it here as comment.

Instead waiting for 2015 to get spice of digital TV in my hometown, I decided to spend few bucks and surprise my elders with satellite TV installation. In my apartment in Brussels I am using Triax 110 cm dish with Stab HH 100 motor, but this solution was not suitable for my parents’ house as I wanted to have possibility to connect at least 2 TV sets which should be able to receive channels from different satellites at the same time. After some online research, I figured out that the best solution could be one of the multi-focus dishes where I could install several LNB’s. As my dad was used to watch just handful of TV stations, I realized that there is no point confusing him with dozen of satellites and thousands of channels that are receivable in southeast Europe. Instead, it would make sense that they are able to receive majority of channels in Serbian/Croatian/Bosnian language (which is actually same language with few different names) and also two main satellites over the European sky – Astra 1 at 19E and Hotbird at 13E. As ex-Yugoslavian channels are mainly broadcast from Eutelsat W2 at 16E and Thor/Intelsat at 1W, all together I had to make them possible to receive total of 4 satellites. On the other hand, the second TV set is mainly used by me and my girlfriend when I am in town. As certified geek and technology freak I would definitely not be happy with only 4 receivable satellites.The reasonable option was to go for 8 satellites, as I am not spending too much time in Serbia anyway, and going for more than that would increase the price of the system. Anyway, the intended usage of this system was actually to watch TV (what a surprise)! I am saying that, because with my other motorized dish in Belgium I am doing everything else except really watching program – instead I am chasing different feeds, experimenting with file download over satellite, trying to receive far west and far east satellites just for sake of being able to receive one single channel from Azerbaijan or Bolivia for example. I will write about these tests on this blog as well in following weeks or months.

The dish of choice for this project was Wave Frontier T-90 Toroidal dish. This antenna allows mounting number of LNB’s that can be spaced at minimum 3 degrees, and it is advertised to cover horizontal angle of 40 degrees. However, I saw some folks on net that did slight modification of LNB holders to cover angle up to 60 degrees. I bought 2 DiSEqC switches – one with 4 ports for my dad’s TV and other one with 8 inputs for another TV. Also, I took 4 LNBs with one output and another 4 LNBs with 2 outputs. Finally, I had old Dreambox 7000 lying around (as I replaced it with DM800 HD few months ago), so I just bought one more DM500, so we have two receivers in total. Again, I was going for cost effective solution, and going for more expensive HD receivers at this point of time was not really a good idea.

On the photos you can see how the installed dish looks like – for some of my neighbors this was quite fascinating as they never saw similar dish. One funny guy even asked me if this is some kind of radar or if I am trying to search for extraterrestrial forms of life. :-) However, the installation was bit painful as the dish itself has millions of screws and other small pieces, so it took me couple of hours to assemble it. I guess it would be bit faster if my dad didn’t help me as he was constantly making mistakes and putting wrong pieces together. One important point to mention is that you need mounting pole of exactly 60 mm in diameter, and that dish itself is placed directly on the top of the pole (as you can see on the picture). This time my dad was quite useful as he modified the cheap balcony dish holder and replaced the 40mm pipe with the wider one, and finally painted the complete holder with rust protecting paint. Thanks, dad!

All together, I selected following satellites:

TV 1: Thor/Intelsat (1 west), Hotbird (13 east), Eutelsat W2 (16 east) and Astra 1 (19 east)

TV2: Thor/Intelsat (1 west), Eurobird (9 east), Hotbird (13 east), Eutelsat W2 (16 east), Astra 1 (19 east), Astra 3 (23.5 east), Astra 2 (28 east) and Hellas-Sat (39 east)

Someone could question my choice of satellites, but I am quite happy with this selection. I know that there are at least few other satellites with quality channels that I could include, but this is more than enough for occasional TV watching.

The 4 LNBs with 2 outputs are installed at positions that are receivable on TV1, and 4 other LNBs are used to receive remaining satellites for TV2. Installation of LNB’s and aligning of the dish itself was piece of the cake. In this setup, I selected Eutelsat 16E to be central satellite as it has proportionally the weakest signal, so I wanted to maximize the performance putting that LNB in the “bull’s eye” of the T-90. I connected that LNB directly to the receiver, tuned to one of the frequency from Eutelsat W2, and start moving the dish left-right and up-down until I got the signal. Then, I tried to find the best possible signal for border satellites at 1W and 39E by sliding those LNBs left and right on the LNB holder, and also by twisting the dish clockwise and counterclockwise. When I was happy with signal on all 3 satellites, I simply positioned other LNBs to get the best possible signal, without moving the dish anymore. Instead of using this blind search method to position LNBs, you can use the Toroidal Calculator from this link, but I didn’t find it necessary to use at all.

I installed each LNB by connecting it directly to the receiver, to avoid messing up with the switch configuration. When the dish and LNBs alignment was optimal, I connected 4 outputs of twin LNBs to the switch 1 which is going to TV1, and 4 outputs from single LNBs and remaining 4 outputs from twin LNB’s to switch 2.  The configuration of the receivers to work with DiSEqC switches was another nightmare, but it took me couple of hours to figure out how to do that, and I wrote separate article to describe DiSEqC 1.1 configuration.

All together, my elders, my girlfriend and I are very satisfied how the system works. I like fast switching from one satellite to another without waiting for the dish to turn, and without the engine noise which can be quite unpleasant especially in the middle of the night. Actually I am thinking to buy one more T-90 dish and install it in my apartment in Brussels, but probably this time I will go for mix of T-90 with 15 LNBs and motor, so I still have motorized dish available to search for feeds or satellites that are beyond the horizontal coverage of T-90. If I decide to upgrade my system, I will dedicate a post about that too. Another thing that I will test is the signal strength difference between the LNBs in central and edge positions. The manufacturer claims that Wave Toroidal T-90 dish is equivalent to simple 90cm dish at any LNB position, but my subjective experience is that LNBs in central position have much better signal than those at the edge of the LNB slider. Of course, stay tuned to my blog to read about that!

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